Just a few years ago there seemed to little chance that Jesus, 35, and Manuel, 59, Brazon would work together. The former went to New York City's Marymount College and was a product designer while Manuel was a teacher in Venezuela's capital and became a cook after moving to the U.S.
As luck would have it, the two independently found a passion for sourdough bread and their disparate paths merged this month at the recently opened Caracas Bakery where Manuel, who was a fixture at the shaping table at Zak The Baker over the past for years, handles some of the breads and pastries, while Jesus tends to the sourdough.
At the moment, the brief opening menu consists of two sizes of the everyday bread called canilla ($2.25 and 75 cents), which is fat laden dough without any starter that bakes up soft, but not quite as light as Cuban bread. A similar dough is styled into a larger, more rustic cylinder called a campesino ($2.75), which the younger Brazon said are commonly used in Venezuela as sandwich loaves. Finally, there are ciabattas ($2.50) as well as sourdough country loaves ($5) available on Saturdays and Sundays.
The Venezuelan spin also carries over to Caracas Bakery's pastry program, which at the moment includes a rich, ham-and-cheese filled cachito ($3), danish with a rich, lemony pastry cream ($2), and on weekends expands with golfeados, a sweet, Venezuelan-style sticky bun ($3.50) filled with either salty queso rayado or mozzarella-like queso a mano.
The goal here is combine the Doral's Venezuelan community's passion for breads like ciabattas and baguettes with the sourdough movement that has been growing across the city.
"I want to do more than just sell sourdough," Jesus said. "I want to teach people about it."
The family only relocated to the U.S. in 2014 and Manuel went to culinary school before pursuing a career in teaching. He often cooked at nights, sometimes selling various products on the weekends as a side business. It didn't take long until he realized his passion for baking.
"It's so simple, it's just flour, salt, and water but it's also very complex," Manuel said. "You can combine the same ingredients 20 different times in different ways to get a different result and eventually you start to feel in your hands how the subtle changes effect the dough."
In 2014 he took at job at Northeast 79th Street's now-closed Mina's Mediterraneo manning the kitchen and handling the freshly made pitas. All the while, however, he was longing for a job at Zak Stern's Wynwood Bakery, but was hesitant because he couldn't speak English.
Eventually, the bakery found a place for him, and even went as far ensuring there was always someone who spoke Spanish during the shifts Manuel work. To this day he still thanks Zak, bakery director Ruben Ovalle, and former pastry chef Maxime Rossetto, for helping him out despite the challenges.
"Unfortunately at one point I could only rise so high because of my English, so instead I decided to work every station in the bakery," the elder Brazon said.
The experience paid off, and now even in its first days Caracas Bakery is selling out regularly, especially the shiny, crispy ham and cheese croissants. At the moment they're re-filling the cases three times a day, and plan to start selling Venezuelan sandwich favorites like mortadella once the country loaves are fine tuned.
"I know how to make two loaves at home where I can control everything," Jesus said. "But doing 24 at one time on real equipment is a challenge.
Caracas Bakery. 7884 NW 54th St., Doral; 305-979-6450
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January 24, 2020 at 10:00PM
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Caracas Bakery in Doral Offers Freshly Baked Venezuelan Breads and Pastries - Miami New Times
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